DATA-BACKED GUIDE · UPDATED JULY 2026
What people really paid for a new kitchen
The real cost of a new kitchen is best judged from what homeowners have actually reported paying, not from a showroom estimate or a generic cost guide. The figures below come from real submissions rather than averages pulled from a supplier's price list. Two kitchens that look almost identical on paper, same size, same layout, similar units, can land at very different final bills once you account for who fitted them and what was included. The median and the range below, alongside real quotes from people who paid for the work, show that spread clearly.
The quick version
- The median below reflects what people actually reported paying for a new kitchen, not a supplier estimate or a national average.
- The range is wide because unit quality, worktop material and whether electrics and plumbing are included all move the final bill.
- A labour-only kitchen fit costs far less than an all-in project covering units, tiling, flooring and appliances.
- Two kitchens of the same size can land at very different totals depending on whether the layout was changed or a wall was moved.
- Reported figures include jobs at every budget level, so the range is a better guide than a single average headline number.
- How the job was priced, one fitter quoting a fixed sum against separate trades billing for their own time, shows up in the final figure as much as the size of the kitchen itself.
What people actually paid
Real prices, in people's own words
- £2,000“His bill was around £2k”
- £2,000“His bill was around £2k”
- £3,300“I recently paid £3300 for rip out and install.”
- £3,300“I recently paid £3300 for rip out and install”
- £4,500“£3,439 kitchen fitter + £625 electrician + £500 plasterer. So that's about £4,500.”
- £10,000“a Wickes flat pack kitchen which cost just under £4000 totalled just under £10,000 all in”
Genuine amounts posted publicly. We publish the price and the quote, never the person.
Why the price varies so much
Two kitchens that look the same size and layout can land at very different totals once you break down what was actually included. A labour-only fit, where you already own the units and appliances, costs a fraction of an all-in project that covers units, worktops, tiling, plumbing, electrics and flooring. Moving a wall or repositioning a sink and hob means extra plumbing and sometimes structural work, and that shows up clearly in what people report paying. Who you hire changes the number too. A sole trader working on their own tends to price a job differently from a larger fitted-kitchen company with a showroom, a design team and staff to pay for, and a job coordinated by a single fitter who subcontracts the plumbing and electrics can end up costing more than hiring each trade directly yourself, even for the same list of work. Region plays a part as well: what a fitter can charge depends on local demand and what other tradespeople nearby are charging, so the same job can cost noticeably more in one part of the country than another. A new consumer unit (fuse board) needed to support extra sockets and appliances is another cost that catches people out because it rarely appears in an initial ballpark figure. It is the same pattern seen in a bathroom refit: the headline number hides a string of decisions that each nudge the final bill up or down.
How to pay less
- Decide early whether you want a labour-only fit or an all-in project, since mixing the two partway through is where budgets usually slip.
- Source your own units, worktop and appliances if the fitter allows it, rather than paying a markup through their supplier account.
- Keep the existing footprint where you can. Moving the sink, hob or a wall adds plumbing, electrics and sometimes structural cost that a straight swap avoids.
- Get quotes broken into labour, materials and trades separately so you can see where the money is actually going before you commit.
- Ask whether the person quoting is doing the work themselves or subcontracting parts of it. A subcontracted job often carries a margin on top of what the actual trade is charging.
- Compare your quote against the reported range below rather than a single generic average, since the spread shows what similar jobs really cost different people.
Common questions
What is a realistic cost for a new kitchen?
The most reliable guide is what people have actually reported paying, shown as the median and range below, rather than a supplier estimate. The spread is wide because unit quality, layout changes and whether trades are included all move the final figure.
Why do kitchen quotes vary so much for a similar size room?
Quotes vary because the same size room can be fitted very differently: labour only against an all-in project, standard units against bespoke joinery, or a straight swap against moving the sink and walls. Comparing quotes on what is actually included, not just the total, explains most of the gap.
Is it cheaper to hire separate trades or one kitchen fitter?
It depends on the job. A single fitter coordinating plumbing and electrics can be simpler and sometimes cheaper for a straightforward swap, while hiring trades separately can save money on a bigger project if you are prepared to manage the schedule yourself. Ask a single fitter upfront whether they are doing the plumbing and electrics themselves or bringing in someone else, since that extra layer is often where the price climbs.
Does moving a kitchen sink or hob add much to the cost?
Yes, often more than people expect. Repositioning a sink or hob means extending plumbing and gas or electrical runs, and if a wall is involved it can mean structural work too. These are common reasons a quote comes in higher than a straight like-for-like swap.
Should I trust a generic kitchen cost guide?
Treat generic guides as a rough starting point only. Real reported figures, like the range below, reflect what people with different budgets and specifications actually paid, which is usually a more honest comparison than a single averaged number.
How much of a kitchen budget usually goes on labour versus materials?
There is no fixed split, and it depends heavily on whether you are paying for a labour-only fit or an all-in project with units, worktops and appliances bundled in. Ask any fitter to break their quote into labour, materials and other trades separately so you can see the actual split for your job rather than guessing at a rule of thumb, and check it against the reported figures below for a similar spec.