DATA-BACKED GUIDE · UPDATED JULY 2026
How much should you spend on a new kitchen in the UK?
There is no single right answer to what a kitchen should cost, only what makes sense for your home and how long you plan to stay in it. Overspend for the street and you will not get it back at resale; underspend and it can look mean in an otherwise smart house. This guide helps you set a sensible budget, see where the money actually goes, and avoid the two ways people waste it: spending on the wrong bucket, or paying a premium for work a local independent could do for less. Use it alongside the real prices below to place your own plans on the scale.
The quick version
- A common rule of thumb ties kitchen spend to your home's value, so a modest house rarely justifies a top-end kitchen you will not recoup at resale.
- The money splits roughly between units, worktops, appliances and fitting, and it is easy to blow the budget on one of those at the expense of the rest.
- Keeping the sink, hob and drainage roughly where they already are is one of the biggest levers on final cost, since moving them pulls in plumbing and electrical work you would not otherwise need.
- If you are selling soon, a clean mid-range kitchen usually shows better value than a lavish one; if you are staying, spend on what you use daily rather than what looks good on a listing.
- Buying units from one supplier and using an independent fitter, rather than taking a single all-in package from a national chain, is often the cheaper route for the same result.
- The real prices below span budget flat-pack through to high-end fitted kitchens so you can see the actual gap between the tiers, not just a national average.
What people actually paid
Real prices, in people's own words
- £2,000“His bill was around £2k”
- £2,000“His bill was around £2k”
- £3,300“I recently paid £3300 for rip out and install.”
- £3,300“I recently paid £3300 for rip out and install”
- £4,500“£3,439 kitchen fitter + £625 electrician + £500 plasterer. So that's about £4,500.”
- £10,000“a Wickes flat pack kitchen which cost just under £4000 totalled just under £10,000 all in”
Genuine amounts posted publicly. We publish the price and the quote, never the person.
Why the price varies so much
Kitchens cover an enormous range because almost every element in the room is a choice, not a fixed cost. Units alone run from flat-pack chipboard to bespoke solid timber, and worktops from laminate up to stone or quartz that can cost more than the cupboards themselves. Appliances are a budget of their own, with a basic oven and hob a world away from an integrated fridge, wine cooler and range. Layout matters just as much as materials: moving the sink, gas or waste means plumbing and electrical work, and any electrics must meet Part P and be signed off by a registered electrician, which adds cost and time you do not get back. Who does the work changes the price too. A national fitted-kitchen chain sells convenience and a single point of contact, and prices for that, while a local independent fitter working with units you have sourced yourself is usually leaner because there is less overhead built into the quote. Region plays a part as well, since day rates for fitters, electricians and plumbers are not the same everywhere, and a kitchen that costs one figure in one part of the country can cost noticeably more or less elsewhere for identical work. On top of all that, the size of the room, how much you are ripping out, and whether walls come down or flooring and lighting change all decide where you land within that wide span.
How to pay less
- Set your budget against your home's value first, then divide it across units, worktops, appliances and fitting so no single item runs away with the lot.
- Keep the existing layout where you can. Leaving the sink and appliances roughly where they are avoids costly plumbing and electrical moves that add up fast once walls are opened.
- Get three quotes and compare like for like: ask each trade to break the price into units, worktop, appliances and labour so you can see where they differ, not just the total.
- Buy the units from one supplier and use an independent fitter rather than taking a single all-in package from a national chain, which often quotes above what local trades would charge for the same fit.
- Any electrical work must meet Part P and be signed off by a registered electrician. Do not let a fitter skip this to save money; it is a false saving if you have to sell the house later.
- Pay deposits by credit card so Section 75 protects you if a supplier or fitter goes under before the job is finished.
Common questions
How much should I spend on a kitchen relative to my house value?
A widely used guide is somewhere between about five and ten per cent of the property's value, though it is a rule of thumb rather than a law. The point is proportion: a very expensive kitchen in a modest home will not add its cost back at resale, while a cheap kitchen in a high-value house can undersell the property.
Where does the money go in a new kitchen?
Broadly across four buckets: the units and cabinetry, the worktops, the appliances, and the labour to fit it all, plus any building, plumbing and electrical work. It is easy to pour the budget into showy worktops or appliances and skimp on fitting, but a good fit is what makes a kitchen last and look right for years rather than months.
Is it worth spending more if I am selling?
Usually not on the top-end extras. Buyers respond to a clean, neutral, well-fitted kitchen more than to expensive gadgets they did not choose and may not want. If a sale is on the horizon, a tidy mid-range kitchen tends to give better value than a lavish one you will effectively leave behind for someone else to enjoy.
Is a national fitted-kitchen chain worth the extra cost over a local fitter?
You are paying for a single point of contact and a showroom process, which suits some people. But sourcing units yourself and hiring an independent fitter can land the same kitchen for less, because the chain's quote carries more overhead. Get quotes from both routes before you decide, using the same layout and spec so the comparison is fair.
Can I cut costs by keeping the existing layout?
Yes, and it is one of the biggest single savings available. Moving the sink, hob or drainage pulls in plumbing and electrical work that a like-for-like reinstall avoids entirely. If your current layout works, spend the money you save on units or worktops instead.
What should I check before paying a deposit?
Pay by credit card where you can, since Section 75 gives you protection if the supplier or fitter goes under before the job is finished. Also confirm in writing that any electrical work will be signed off under Part P by a registered electrician, and get a written breakdown of units, worktop, appliances and labour so you know exactly what the deposit is buying.