DATA-BACKED GUIDE · UPDATED JULY 2026
What affects the cost of garden fencing
Two fencing quotes for what looks like the same garden can be miles apart, and the reason is usually in the detail rather than the fencer being greedy or cheap. Post type, ground conditions and what happens to the old fence all move the number before a single panel goes up. Knowing what drives the price helps you judge whether a quote is fair against the real prices on this page.
The quick version
- Post type, panel style and height are the three biggest drivers of a fencing quote.
- Ground conditions like slopes, tree roots or old concrete footings can quietly add hours of labour that never show up on a basic per-metre price.
- Taking away the old fence and tipping it is often a separate line item, and it's worth asking whether it's included before you compare quotes.
- Fencing counts as building work, so expect 20% VAT to be part of the price from a VAT-registered fencer.
- A cheap per-metre rate can still end up the most expensive quote once removal, concrete and access are added back in.
What people actually paid
Real prices, in people's own words
- £1,152“Cost £1152”
- £1,500“I paid about £1,500 for 6 overlap panels with concrete posts”
- £2,000“Cost just under £2k.”
- £2,880“We had 18 panels with concrete posts and gravel boards fitted for £160 each”
Genuine amounts posted publicly. We publish the price and the quote, never the person.
Why the price varies so much
The headline number is the panels, but the real cost lives underground and in the labour. Concrete posts and gravel boards cost more upfront than timber but resist rot, so a quote built around them will read higher than one using all-timber construction, even for the same length of fence. Digging in hard, rocky or root-filled ground takes longer than digging into clean soil, and a sloping garden may need stepped panels rather than a simple straight run, which adds both material and time. Access matters too. A fencer who has to barrow concrete and panels round the side of a house to a back garden will charge more than one working straight off a driveway. Then there's the old fence: does it need pulling out, and does that waste need to go to the tip, or can it be burned or reused on site? Who owns the firm plays a part as well. A sole trader working alone keeps overheads low and can price closer to material and time cost, while a larger outfit with vans, staff and admin has more to cover, which shows up in the quote even before the job starts. Region matters in the same way it does for most trades: labour rates and how busy local fencers are will shift the going rate up or down. All of that sits behind a number that can look simple at first glance but rarely is.
How to pay less
- Decide on post type and panel style before you ask for quotes, so every fencer is pricing the same spec rather than their own default.
- Get three quotes and ask each one to itemise removal, posts, concrete and panels separately, so you can see exactly what's driving the difference.
- Choose standard heights and off-the-shelf panel styles, since anything custom-cut or non-standard pushes material and labour costs up.
- Favour local, established fencers over national firms, who tend to quote above local rates for identical work.
- Offer to clear or dispose of the old fence yourself if you have a van or trailer, and ask for that line to be removed from the quote.
- Book outside the spring rush if you can. Fencers are usually quieter over autumn and winter, and a fuller diary in March to May tends to push prices up.
Common questions
Why is one fencing quote so much higher than another?
Usually because the two fencers have priced different things rather than because one is overcharging. One quote may include concrete posts, gravel boards and old fence removal, while another assumes timber posts and no clearance at all. Ask each to itemise their price so you're comparing like with like against the real prices on this page.
Does fence height change the cost much?
Yes, and by more than most people expect. Taller panels use more timber and usually need stronger, deeper-set posts to stay upright in wind. Going above two metres can also require planning permission, which adds time, paperwork and cost before work even starts. Most garden boundaries stick to standard heights partly for this reason.
Should I use a national fencing company or a local one?
You can use either, but national firms tend to quote above local, established fencers for the same job because of higher overheads. Get three quotes and include at least one or two local trades so you can see what a fair price actually looks like before you decide.
Is it worth paying extra for concrete posts instead of timber?
It depends on how long you want the fence to last. Concrete posts cost more upfront but don't rot at the base, which is usually where timber posts fail first. If you're planning to stay in the property for years, the higher initial price can be worth it against the cost of replacing timber posts sooner.
Does removing the old fence cost extra?
Often, yes. Pulling out old posts and panels and getting rid of the waste takes time and may mean a tip run or a skip, and plenty of fencers quote that as a separate line rather than folding it into the per-metre rate. Always ask directly whether removal and disposal are included before comparing prices.
Why do two similar-looking fences end up different prices per metre?
Ground conditions are usually the hidden factor. A fence going into soft, level soil goes up quickly, while one hitting old concrete footings, tree roots or rock underneath takes far longer to dig and set, even though the finished fence looks identical from the garden. Access for barrowing materials to the back of the property adds to this too.